Horse Health Knowledge Library

Colic simply means pain in the horse's belly. It is not one disease. It is a word we use for many different problems that upset the gut, such as gas, a blockage, or a twist in the intestine.

Most cases are mild and settle with care. But some can turn serious quickly. Because it is hard to tell at the start how bad a case will be, colic should always be taken seriously.

Signs to watch for

• Pawing at the ground or looking at the flank
• Rolling, lying down more than usual, or getting up and down
• Not eating or passing fewer droppings
• Restlessness, sweating, or a raised heart rate
• Standing stretched out as if trying to urinate

What you can do

• Take away all feed until you have spoken to your vet
• Keep your horse calm and quiet in a safe space
• Note the time signs started and how they change
• Allow gentle walking if your horse wants to move, but do not force it
• Check for droppings and note when they last passed

Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome, or EGUS, means sores have formed in the lining of the horse's stomach. A horse's stomach makes acid all the time, so long gaps without food can let that acid irritate the lining.

Ulcers are common, especially in horses in hard work, those that travel a lot, or those kept on high-grain diets with little turnout. The good news is that with the right changes and treatment, most horses do very well.

Signs to watch for

• Poor appetite or leaving grain
• Dull coat or gradual weight loss
• Grumpy behaviour, especially when the girth is tightened
• Mild, repeated colic-like discomfort
• Drop in performance or reluctance to work

What you can do

• Offer plenty of forage so the stomach is rarely empty
• Allow as much turnout and grazing as you can
• Feed some forage before exercise
• Reduce grain and split feeds into smaller, more frequent meals
• Keep stress and travel to a minimum where possible

In horses, choke means food is stuck in the gullet, the tube that carries food to the stomach. Unlike people, a choking horse can still breathe. This makes it less of an emergency for the airway, but it is still upsetting and needs care.

Choke often happens when a horse eats too fast, bolts dry feed, or does not chew well because of dental problems. Many cases clear on their own, but some need veterinary help.

Signs to watch for

• Coughing and repeated swallowing attempts
• Food or saliva coming from the nose or mouth
• Stretching or arching the neck
• Looking anxious, drooling, or off feed
• A firm lump sometimes felt on the left side of the neck

What you can do

• Remove all feed and water straight away
• Keep your horse calm and let it lower its head to help clear the blockage
• Do not try to push food down or give anything by mouth
• Prevent future choke by soaking feed and slowing fast eaters
• Keep up regular dental care so chewing stays healthy

Laminitis is a painful condition of the feet. Inside the hoof, delicate tissues called laminae hold the pedal bone in place. In laminitis, these tissues become inflamed and weakened, which is very sore.

It often affects the front feet and can come on suddenly. Common triggers include too much rich grass, illness, or an underlying hormone problem. Early action makes a real difference, so knowing the signs matters.

Signs to watch for

• Reluctance to walk or a shortened, pottery stride
• Leaning back onto the heels to take weight off the toes
• Shifting weight from foot to foot
• Warm hooves or a stronger than normal pulse at the fetlock
• Lying down more than usual

What you can do

• Move your horse off rich grass onto a soft, deep bed
• Restrict grazing, especially in spring and after frosts
• Keep body weight in a healthy range
• Provide soft footing and limit walking until advised
• Keep up regular, balanced hoof trimming

Equine Metabolic Syndrome, or EMS, is a condition in which a horse's body does not handle sugar in the normal way. The hormone insulin stops working as it should, which is called insulin resistance. This raises the risk of laminitis.

EMS is often seen in overweight horses and in easy keepers, or good doers, that gain weight on very little feed. Some breeds and ponies are more prone. With careful diet and management, the condition can usually be controlled well.

Signs to watch for

• Being overweight or gaining weight easily
• Fatty lumps, often along the crest of the neck
• Fat pads near the tail head or above the eyes
• Repeated bouts of laminitis
• Trouble losing weight despite modest feeding

What you can do

• Restrict rich grass and soak or limit sugary feeds
• Feed low-sugar forage and keep meals simple
• Encourage gentle, regular exercise if the feet are sound
• Use a grazing muzzle or track system to control intake
• Monitor body condition and weight over time

PPID stands for Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction. It used to be called Cushing's disease. It is caused by changes in a small gland at the base of the brain, which then makes too many hormones.

PPID is common in older horses and ponies. It comes on slowly, so the signs are easy to miss at first. It cannot be cured, but daily medication and good care allow most affected horses to live comfortable, happy lives for many years.

Signs to watch for

• A long, curly coat that is slow to shed
• Drinking and urinating more than usual
• Loss of muscle, often over the topline
• A pot-bellied appearance
• Repeated laminitis or slow healing and infections

What you can do

• Clip the coat in warm weather to keep your horse comfortable
• Feed a balanced, low-sugar diet to support healthy weight
• Keep up regular hoof, dental, and worming care
• Watch closely for early signs of laminitis
• Give any prescribed medication consistently every day

Arthritis, sometimes called degenerative joint disease, happens when the smooth cushioning inside a joint slowly wears down. The joint can become inflamed, stiff, and sore. It is very common in older horses and in horses that have worked hard over many years.

The good news is that arthritis is manageable. With gentle, steady care, many horses stay comfortable and active for a long time. It usually comes on slowly, so small changes you notice early are worth paying attention to.

Signs to watch for

• Stiffness that eases up once your horse warms up and moves
• A short or uneven stride, especially on hard ground or circles
• Puffiness, heat, or swelling around a joint
• Being slower to get going in the morning or in cold weather
• Reluctance to turn, back up, or pick up a foot

What you can do

• Keep your horse moving with gentle, regular turnout rather than long rest
• Warm up slowly and cool down gently before and after work
• Keep your horse at a healthy weight to ease the load on joints
• Provide soft, level footing and good, dry bedding
• Keep up a regular farrier schedule for balanced feet
• Watch for cold, damp days that can make stiffness worse

Lameness simply means your horse is not moving normally, usually because something hurts. It can show up in a leg, a foot, the back, or elsewhere. It may be very obvious, or so slight you only feel it as an odd rhythm under saddle.

Spotting lameness early helps you and your vet find the cause sooner. Watching your horse walk and trot on a regular basis helps you learn what "normal" looks like for them, so changes stand out.

Signs to watch for

• A head bob or nod, often as the sore leg touches down
• A shortened, uneven, or choppy stride
• Favoring one leg or resting a foot more than usual
• Heat, swelling, or a stronger pulse in a foot or leg
• Reluctance to turn, work in one direction, or move forward
• Standing in an unusual, guarded way

What you can do

• Watch your horse walk and trot on firm, level ground in a straight line
• Gently feel each leg and foot for heat, swelling, or tenderness
• Check the hooves for stones, cracks, or signs of a foot abscess
• Rest your horse and avoid work until you understand the cause
• Note when it started and whether it is better or worse to share with your vet

Tying-up, also called exertional rhabdomyolysis, happens when large muscles cramp and become damaged during or shortly after exercise. It is often painful and can look alarming, but many horses recover well with prompt, calm care.

Some horses tie up only once, often after a hard workout or a change in routine. Others are prone to it and need careful ongoing management of feed and exercise. Diet, fitness, and daily routine all play a part.

Signs to watch for

• Stiff, reluctant movement or refusing to move during or after work
• Hard, tense, painful muscles, often over the hindquarters
• Sweating, a fast heart rate, and signs of distress
• Dark or coffee-colored urine
• A stiff, shuffling gait or standing stretched out

What you can do

• Stop exercise straight away and do not force your horse to walk
• Keep your horse calm, warm, and comfortable where they stand
• Offer fresh water and let your horse rest
• Introduce work gradually and warm up and cool down properly
• Feed a balanced diet suited to workload, with plenty of forage
• Keep to a steady daily routine of turnout and exercise

Equine asthma, in its more severe form often called heaves, is a long-term condition where the airways become inflamed and narrowed. This makes it harder for your horse to breathe, especially breathing out. It is usually set off by tiny particles in the air, such as dust, mold spores in hay, or bedding.

Asthma tends to come and go, often getting worse in dusty barns or at certain times of year. It cannot always be cured, but with good management of the air your horse breathes, many horses live comfortable, active lives.

Signs to watch for

• A cough, especially at the start of exercise or while eating hay
• Increased effort to breathe, particularly breathing out
• Nasal discharge, often clear or whitish
• A raised 'heave line' along the belly from extra breathing effort
• Getting tired or short of breath more easily than usual

What you can do

• Maximize turnout and fresh air, as clean outdoor air often helps
• Soak or steam hay to cut down dust, or feed a low-dust forage
• Use low-dust bedding and muck out when your horse is elsewhere
• Keep your horse away from dusty arenas and stored hay or straw
• Improve barn ventilation so air moves freely
• Feed hay from the ground rather than a high net

Coughing is your horse's way of clearing the airways. A single cough at the start of exercise can be normal. But a cough that happens often, lasts more than a few days, or comes with other signs usually means something needs looking into.

Common causes include dust in hay or bedding, allergies, and respiratory infections. Finding the trigger is the key to helping your horse breathe easily again. Paying attention to when the cough happens can offer helpful clues.

Signs to watch for

• A cough that repeats, or happens most days
• Coughing while eating, working, or in the stable
• Nasal discharge, whether clear, white, yellow, or green
• Faster or more labored breathing
• Being off food, dull, or running a temperature
• Getting tired more quickly during exercise

What you can do

• Increase fresh air and turnout where you can
• Soak or steam hay and choose low-dust bedding to reduce dust
• Feed forage from the ground to help airways drain
• Improve ventilation and avoid dusty, poorly aired barns
• Rest your horse from hard work while the cough settles
• Keep a coughing horse away from others if infection is possible

Sarcoids are lumps or patches of skin caused by an abnormal growth of skin cells. They are not cancerous in the way people often fear. They do not spread to the internal organs. But they can grow, change, and sometimes come back after treatment.

They often appear where flies gather or where the skin has been injured. Common spots are around the eyes, the sheath or udder, the belly, and the legs. Sarcoids come in different forms. Some look like flat, scaly patches. Others look like warts, firm lumps under the skin, or angry, weeping sores.

Signs to watch for

• A flat, hairless, scaly patch of skin that does not heal
• Wart-like or knobbly growths on the skin
• A firm lump you can feel under the skin
• A raw, ulcerated area that keeps weeping or bleeding
• A lump that slowly grows or changes shape over time

What you can do

• Keep good fly control to reduce irritation around the lumps
• Take clear photos every few weeks so you can track any changes
• Avoid picking at, rubbing, or trying to remove growths yourself
• Keep the area clean and protected from injury
• Note the size and number of lumps, as new ones can appear

Melanomas are firm, dark lumps that form in the skin. They are very common in gray horses as they get older. In fact, most gray horses will develop at least one during their lifetime. The lumps are made of the pigment cells that give the coat its color.

Many melanomas grow slowly and cause no trouble for years. Some stay small and quiet. Others can grow larger, join together, or appear in places that get in the way, such as under the tail. It is sensible to keep an eye on them and let your vet know when they first appear.

Signs to watch for

• Firm, round, black or dark gray lumps under the skin
• Lumps most often under the tail, around the anus, or on the sheath
• Lumps near the lips, eyes, or on the neck
• A shiny, hairless surface over the lump
• Several lumps grouped close together

What you can do

• Check under the tail and around the sheath or udder regularly
• Take photos and note the size so you can track slow changes
• Keep good fly control to protect any lumps that get rubbed
• Make sure tack and rugs do not press on or rub the lumps
• Keep the skin clean, especially around the tail area

Scratches, also called mud fever, is a skin problem on the lower legs. It affects the back of the pastern and the heel area. The skin becomes red, sore, and crusty, often with matted hair and scabs.

It usually starts when the skin stays wet and muddy for a long time. The damp softens the skin and lets germs take hold. Horses with white legs or lots of feather (long leg hair) can be more prone to it. Left alone, the legs can swell and become painful.

Signs to watch for

• Scabs and crusts on the back of the pastern or heel
• Red, sore, or weeping skin under the hair
• Matted or clumped hair on the lower leg
• Swelling of the lower leg
• Tenderness when you touch the area, or mild lameness

What you can do

• Move the horse to a dry, clean area away from deep mud
• Gently clean the legs and dry them thoroughly, especially in the heel folds
• Soften and lift scabs gently rather than picking them off dry
• Avoid repeated washing that keeps the skin wet all the time
• Keep bedding clean and dry, and let legs dry fully after turnout

Rain rot is a common skin infection that shows up after long spells of wet weather. It is caused by a germ that lives on the skin and becomes active when the coat stays damp. It is most often seen along the back, rump, and neck, where rain settles.

The skin forms crusty scabs, often with tufts of matted hair stuck together. When these scabs are lifted, they may pull away a small clump of hair, leaving a bare patch. It usually is not painful, but the skin can feel tender. It can spread on shared brushes and rugs.

Signs to watch for

• Crusty scabs along the back, rump, or neck
• Tufts of matted hair that lift off in small clumps
• Small bare patches where scabs have come away
• A row of raised bumps you can feel along the coat
• Tender skin, though often not very painful

What you can do

• Give the horse a dry place to shelter from constant rain
• Gently remove loose scabs once softened, and dispose of them
• Keep the coat clean and let it dry fully before rugging
• Do not share brushes, rugs, or tack between horses
• Clean grooming kit and rugs to avoid spreading it

Sweet itch is an allergic reaction to the bites of tiny flying midges. Some horses are extra sensitive, so even a few bites cause intense itching. It is most common in the warmer months when midges are active, especially at dawn and dusk.

The itching leads horses to rub against fences, trees, and stable walls. Over time this breaks the hair and skin, most often along the mane, the top of the tail, and the belly. The skin can become bald, thickened, and sore. It tends to return each year, so prevention matters most.

Signs to watch for

• Constant rubbing on fences, walls, or trees
• Hair loss along the mane, tail, and belly
• Broken, raw, or thickened skin in rubbed areas
• Restlessness, head shaking, or tail swishing
• Signs that are worse in warm weather and at dawn or dusk

What you can do

• Use a well-fitting fly rug and hood during midge season
• Stable horses at dawn and dusk when midges feed most
• Avoid grazing near standing water, muck heaps, and woodland
• Use safe fly repellents suited to horses, applied regularly
• Add fans in the stable, as midges avoid moving air
• Soothe sore skin and keep rubbed areas clean and protected

Horses pick up cuts, grazes, and puncture wounds fairly often. Many small wounds heal well with simple, gentle care. But some need a vet, especially deep wounds, those near joints, and any that will not stop bleeding.

What matters most is staying calm, keeping the wound clean, and judging how serious it is. Even a small hole can be deep, and wounds over joints or on the lower legs can be more serious than they look. When in doubt, it is always sensible to call for advice.

Signs to watch for

• Bleeding, or a fresh cut, graze, or puncture
• Swelling, heat, or pain around the injury
• A wound that gapes open or has flaps of skin
• Discharge, pus, or a bad smell as it heals
• Lameness, or reluctance to move or bear weight

What you can do

• Stay calm and keep the horse still and safe
• Apply firm, steady pressure with a clean cloth to control bleeding
• Gently rinse loose dirt away with clean water if the wound is minor
• Cover a minor wound loosely to keep it clean, if the horse allows
• Check the horse is up to date on tetanus protection
• Do not apply strong chemicals, powders, or creams into the wound

A hoof abscess is a small pocket of infection trapped inside the hoof. It usually starts when dirt or bacteria get in through a tiny crack, a stone bruise, or a nail hole. Pressure builds up inside the hard hoof wall, and that pressure causes the pain.

Because the hoof cannot swell like soft tissue, even a small abscess can hurt a lot. The good news is that most abscesses heal well once the trapped fluid can drain out. Many horses feel much better within a day or two of that happening.

Signs to watch for

• Sudden, often severe lameness in one leg
• The horse may not want to put weight on the foot
• The hoof feels warm compared to the others
• A stronger pulse felt at the back of the pastern
• Sometimes swelling up the leg
• Sometimes pus draining at the coronary band or heel

What you can do

• Move the horse to a clean, dry, well-bedded stall or small area
• Pick out the foot gently and check for stones or an obvious black spot
• Keep the foot clean and dry while you wait for advice
• Warm soaking or poulticing can help draw out infection if your vet or farrier suggests it
• Avoid hard exercise until the horse is sound again

Thrush is an infection of the frog, the soft V-shaped part on the bottom of the hoof. It is caused by bacteria that thrive in wet, muddy, or dirty conditions. The tell-tale sign is a dark, foul-smelling discharge in the grooves around the frog.

Most thrush is mild and clears up with better hoof care and drier footing. If it is left alone, though, it can eat deeper into the frog and become sore. Keeping feet clean and dry is the best way to prevent it and to help it heal.

Signs to watch for

• A strong, rotten smell from the bottom of the foot
• Black, oozy discharge in the grooves beside the frog
• The frog looks ragged or soft rather than firm
• Deep, sensitive grooves that may bleed when cleaned
• Sometimes mild lameness in worse cases

What you can do

• Pick out the feet at least once a day, getting into the grooves
• Keep the stall, paddock, and bedding as clean and dry as possible
• Turn out on drier ground when you can
• Ask your farrier to trim away loose, infected frog tissue
• Use a hoof cleaning routine and keep exercise on clean footing

Sweating is how horses shed body heat. Anhidrosis is when a horse partly or completely loses the ability to sweat. Without that cooling, the horse can overheat easily, especially in hot, humid weather. It is most common in warm, muggy climates.

Some horses stop sweating suddenly, others fade over time. It can be worrying, but with careful management of heat and exercise, most affected horses can be kept safe and comfortable. Keeping your horse cool is the heart of managing this condition.

Signs to watch for

• Little or no sweat after exercise or in hot weather
• Fast, heavy breathing used to try to cool down
• Getting tired quickly and struggling in the heat
• Hot, dry skin and a raised body temperature
• A dull, patchy, or thinning coat over time

What you can do

• Exercise during the coolest parts of the day, early or late
• Provide shade, fans, and good airflow in the barn
• Cool your horse with cold water and scrape off the excess
• Always offer plenty of clean, fresh water and free-choice salt
• Avoid hard work on hot, humid days
• Watch closely and reduce activity when the weather is muggy

All grazing horses pick up internal parasites, mainly worms, from the pasture. A small number rarely causes trouble. Problems start when worm burdens get high, which can lead to weight loss, poor coats, and in serious cases colic.

Today's best practice is not to deworm every horse on a fixed calendar. Too much deworming has made some worms resistant to the medicines. Instead, we test droppings to see which horses actually need treatment, and we treat based on those results. This keeps horses healthy and keeps the medicines working.

Signs to watch for

• Weight loss or a pot-bellied look, especially in young horses
• A dull, rough coat
• Poor energy or slow growth
• Tail rubbing (a possible sign of pinworms)
• In heavy burdens, repeated mild colic or diarrhea

What you can do

• Pick up droppings from paddocks regularly, ideally twice a week
• Avoid overcrowding and rotate or rest grazing when possible
• Ask your vet about fecal egg count tests to guide treatment
• Deworm based on test results and your vet's plan, not habit
• Keep a simple record of what each horse is given and when

A horse's teeth keep growing throughout much of its life and are worn down by chewing. Because the upper and lower jaws are not the same width, sharp edges and points can form on the teeth. These points can rub the cheeks and tongue and make eating or wearing a bit uncomfortable.

A routine dental check, often called floating, smooths these sharp edges. Most horses do well with a check about once a year, though some need it more often. Good dental care helps your horse get the most from its food and stay comfortable.

Signs to watch for

• Dropping partly chewed food, called quidding
• Losing weight or eating more slowly
• Bad smell from the mouth
• Tilting the head, tossing, or resisting the bit
• Undigested grain or long fiber in the droppings
• Swelling on the face or jaw

What you can do

• Book a routine dental check about once a year
• Watch how your horse eats and note any changes
• Feed at a comfortable height and provide plenty of forage
• Keep older horses' checks more frequent if advised
• Keep a record of dental visits and any findings

Body condition is a simple way to judge whether your horse is too thin, too fat, or just right. Rather than only weighing, we look and feel for fat over the ribs, neck, back, and tailhead. This gives a clear picture of overall condition.

Both extremes cause problems. A horse that is too thin may be unwell or underfed. A horse that is too fat is at greater risk of laminitis, a painful foot condition, and other health issues. Checking condition regularly helps you catch changes early and adjust feeding before problems start.

Signs to watch for

• Ribs you cannot feel at all, or ribs that are clearly visible
• A hard, cresty fat pad along the neck
• Fatty lumps near the tailhead or behind the shoulders
• A sunken or very prominent backbone
• Noticeable weight change over a few weeks

What you can do

• Run your hands over the ribs, neck, and tailhead every couple of weeks
• Use a weigh tape and keep a simple record to track trends
• Base the diet mainly on good forage and match feed to workload
• Limit rich grass for easy keepers, using restricted grazing if needed
• Provide regular, suitable exercise
• Make any feed changes slowly over several days

Thanks to better care, many horses now live comfortably into their twenties and beyond. As they age, their needs change. Teeth wear down, joints get stiffer, and they may find it harder to hold their weight or cope with very hot or cold weather.

Good senior care is about small, steady adjustments. Softer feeds, regular health checks, and a comfortable environment can keep an older horse happy and well for many years. Watching closely for gradual changes lets you help them stay comfortable as they age.

Signs to watch for

• Losing weight or struggling to chew normal feed
• Stiffness, especially when getting up or in cold weather
• A long, curly coat that is slow to shed (a possible hormone issue)
• Drinking or urinating more than usual
• Being pushed off food or shelter by other horses
• Slower recovery after exercise

What you can do

• Offer easy-to-chew forage and soaked feeds if chewing is hard
• Keep up regular dental checks, often more than once a year
• Provide shelter and, if needed, extra warmth in cold, wet weather
• Keep gentle, regular movement to ease stiff joints
• Make sure older horses have easy access to food and clean water
• Schedule regular health checks to catch problems early

TPR stands for temperature, pulse, and respiration. Knowing how to check these gives you an early warning when your horse is unwell and helps your vet over the phone.

Step by step

1. Choose a calm moment and have a helper hold your horse if possible.
2. Take the temperature first by gently inserting a lubricated thermometer into the rectum and holding it for the timed reading; normal is about 37.5 to 38.5 C (99 to 101 F).
3. Find the pulse under the jaw or just below and behind the fetlock, count the beats for 15 seconds, then multiply by four; normal resting rate is about 28 to 44 beats per minute.
4. Count breaths by watching the flank or nostrils rise and fall for 15 seconds, then multiply by four; normal is about 8 to 16 breaths per minute.
5. Check gum colour and press a gum until it pales, then time how long the pink returns; under two seconds is normal.
6. Write down each figure with the date and time so you can spot changes.

Colic means abdominal pain and can range from mild to serious. Acting calmly and early gives your horse the best chance of a good outcome.

Step by step

1. Watch for pawing, looking at the belly, rolling, restlessness, or not passing droppings.
2. Remove all food and hay so nothing more enters the gut.
3. Take your horse's vital signs and note them down for your vet.
4. Call your vet straight away and describe what you see.
5. Keep your horse calm and quietly walk them if they want to roll violently, but do not exhaust them.
6. Note the time you last saw droppings and any recent changes in feed, water, or routine.
7. Stay safe, as a horse in pain can move suddenly.

A hoof abscess is a trapped pocket of infection inside the hoof that causes sudden, often severe lameness. Most drain and heal well with patient care.

Step by step

1. Move your horse to a clean, dry, soft-bedded stable to rest the sore foot.
2. Gently clean the hoof and check for heat, a digital pulse, or a small dark spot.
3. Ask your vet or farrier to confirm the abscess before hoof testing or opening it.
4. Apply a warm poultice to the sole as advised, then cover with padding and a hoof bandage or boot.
5. Change the poultice once or twice daily and keep the area clean and dry.
6. Keep the foot bandaged and protected until the abscess drains and drying-out begins.
7. Once it has drained, switch to a dry dressing and keep the foot clean while it heals.

A well-applied leg bandage protects wounds, reduces swelling, and supports soft tissue. Applied correctly it helps healing; applied too tightly it can cause harm.

Step by step

1. Gather clean padding, a conforming bandage, and a securing layer before you start.
2. Make sure the leg and any wound dressing are clean and in place.
3. Wrap a thick, even layer of padding around the leg, smoothing out any wrinkles.
4. Apply the bandage over the padding with firm, even pressure, overlapping each turn by about half.
5. Always wrap in the same direction on both sides and keep the padding extending beyond the bandage top and bottom.
6. Finish below the knee or hock and secure the end without digging in.
7. Check you can slide a finger under the top edge to confirm it is snug, not tight.

Body-condition scoring is a simple way to assess fat cover across your horse's body. Regular scoring helps you keep weight healthy and catch changes early.

Step by step

1. Stand your horse square on level ground in good light.
2. Look at the overall shape from the side and from behind.
3. Run your hands firmly over the neck and shoulders to feel the fat cover.
4. Feel along the ribs; you should feel them easily but not see them clearly.
5. Check the back and loins, which should feel level, not sunken or with a fatty crease.
6. Feel around the tailhead and quarters for softness or hardness.
7. Give a score using a recognised scale and note it down.
8. Repeat every few weeks and track changes over the seasons.

A well-stocked first-aid kit lets you respond calmly to wounds and minor problems while help is on the way. Keeping it ready saves precious time in an emergency.

Step by step

1. Choose a clean, waterproof, clearly labelled container that is easy to carry.
2. Add a digital thermometer, a clean bucket, and cotton wool or clean padding.
3. Include sterile wound dressings, several rolls of padding, and conforming and cohesive bandages.
4. Pack blunt-ended scissors, clean gloves, and a mild antiseptic wash.
5. Add saline or clean water for flushing wounds and a torch with spare batteries.
6. Keep your vet's number, your horse's normal vital signs, and a notepad inside.
7. Store the kit somewhere dry and familiar to everyone at the yard.
8. Check it regularly and replace anything used or out of date.

A deworming program is a planned routine for testing and treating your horse for internal parasites. Today's best practice uses testing to guide treatment, rather than dosing every horse on a fixed calendar.

Step by step

1. Ask your vet to run a faecal egg count on a fresh manure sample before you treat.
2. Use the result to learn whether your horse sheds low, moderate, or high numbers of eggs.
3. Treat based on the count and your vet's advice, not on habit or the calendar.
4. Give one or two strategic doses each year to target parasites that testing may miss.
5. Weigh or measure your horse so you can give the correct dose every time.
6. Pick up manure from paddocks regularly and rotate grazing to lower worm burdens.
7. Keep written records of each test result, product used, and date given.
8. Retest as your vet suggests to check that treatments are still working.

A horse's gut needs time to adjust to any change in feed. Introducing new feeds or supplements gradually helps prevent colic, digestive upset, and other problems.

Step by step

1. Introduce only one new feed or supplement at a time so you can judge its effect.
2. Start by replacing a small amount of the old feed with the new one.
3. Increase the new feed slowly over seven to fourteen days.
4. Follow the feeding amounts suggested for your horse's weight and workload.
5. Watch each day for changes in appetite, droppings, energy, or behaviour.
6. Make sure clean, fresh water is always available during the change.
7. Once fully switched, keep the routine steady and feed at consistent times.

Lameness is pain or weakness that changes how a horse moves. Catching it early gives your horse the best chance of a quick, full recovery.

Step by step

1. Watch your horse stand and note if it rests one leg or shifts weight often.
2. Lead your horse at a walk on firm, level ground and look for an uneven stride.
3. Have a helper trot the horse in a straight line while you watch from behind and the side.
4. Look for a head nod, which often dips down as the sound front leg lands.
5. Watch the hips from behind, as one hip may rise higher with a hind-leg problem.
6. Feel each leg and hoof for heat, swelling, or a stronger-than-usual pulse.
7. Compare left and right sides, and check for any change from how your horse normally moves.

Laminitis is painful inflammation inside the hoof, often linked to metabolic conditions that affect how a horse handles sugar. Careful daily management helps prevent flare-ups and keeps your horse comfortable.

Step by step

1. Work with your vet to confirm the diagnosis and set a management plan.
2. Limit access to rich, sugary grass, especially in spring and after frosts.
3. Feed low-sugar, high-fibre forage and soak hay if your vet advises it.
4. Use a grazing muzzle or a small dry lot to control grass intake.
5. Keep your horse at a healthy weight and encourage gentle movement when sound.
6. Follow a regular farrier schedule to support the feet.
7. Check the feet daily for heat, a bounding pulse, or reluctance to move.
8. Give any prescribed medication exactly as directed and keep records.

Scratches, also called mud fever, is a skin condition that causes scabs and irritation on the lower legs. It usually appears in wet, muddy conditions where skin stays damp for long periods.

Step by step

1. Move your horse to a clean, dry area to keep the legs out of mud.
2. Gently clean the affected skin with warm water and a mild cleanser.
3. Softly remove loose scabs only when they lift easily, without forcing them.
4. Pat the legs completely dry with a clean, soft towel.
5. Apply a gentle barrier or soothing cream as your vet suggests.
6. Keep the legs dry and check them daily, cleaning gear between uses.
7. Avoid harsh scrubbing, which can damage skin and slow healing.

Some horses lose the ability to sweat properly, a condition often called anhidrosis. Because sweating is how horses cool down, these horses can overheat easily and need extra care.

Step by step

1. Watch for less sweat than expected, fast breathing, or a horse that tires quickly in heat.
2. Provide constant access to shade and good airflow, using fans if possible.
3. Offer clean, cool water at all times to encourage drinking.
4. Exercise only in the cool early morning or evening, and keep sessions light.
5. Cool your horse with cold water over the body and scrape off the excess.
6. Consider turnout at night and stabling during the hottest part of the day.
7. Talk to your vet about diet and management options that may help.

Dust, mould, and airborne particles in the barn can irritate a horse's airways over time. Reducing dust helps keep the lungs healthy, especially for horses prone to breathing problems.

Step by step

1. Improve airflow by opening doors, windows, and vents whenever weather allows.
2. Choose low-dust bedding and shake it out well before use.
3. Soak or steam hay to settle dust before feeding.
4. Feed hay from the ground so your horse can clear its airways naturally.
5. Move horses outside or to another area before sweeping or mucking out.
6. Store hay and bedding away from where horses live and breathe.
7. Clean and dampen the aisles gently to keep dust from rising.
8. Turn horses out as much as possible for fresh air.